Hoi An, Vietnam: From Pancakes to Pottery.
- Clodagh Mooney
- Apr 11
- 8 min read

This blog is my love letter to the place that truly stole my heart.
After spending some time in Hanoi where the horns honk more than people talk (I swear they beep good morning), my ears were begging for mercy. Enter Hoi An — the peaceful paradise with actual no honking signs plastered everywhere like golden tickets to sanity. My head thanked me and my soul sighed in relief.
Tucked away on Vietnam’s central coast lies a town that feels like it was plucked straight from the pages of a storybook. Hoi An is the kind of place that lingers in your memory—not just for its postcard-perfect views, but for how it makes you feel while you’re there. It’s colorful, peaceful, rich with history, and bursting with soul. From glowing lanterns to ancient temples, sizzling street food, tailor-made fashion, and spiritual sanctuaries, Hoi An has a way of wrapping itself around you.

The Golden Glow of Hoi An
The first thing that hits you in Hoi An is the color- that warm, golden yellow that bathes nearly every wall, shop, and alley. This isn't just a happy accident. In Vietnamese culture, yellow represents prosperity, happiness, and royalty. In the past, this color was often reserved for temples and homes of the wealthy. Over time, it became synonymous with the town’s identity.
The soft sunlight bouncing off the mustard-yellow buildings gives the whole town a dreamy, timeless feel. It reflects the hospitality of the people who live here and softens the already slow pace of life. Add in the vibrant glow of lanterns strung across every street, you’ve got a place that feels almost unreal.
When you first arrive in Hoi An, the energy hits you all at once—a whirlwind of color, movement, and atmosphere. Between the open-air cafés, street vendors, and tailor shops vying for your attention, it’s easy to feel swept up in the vibrancy of it all. But amid the joyful chaos, there’s another side of Hoi An that’s just as magical: its temples and heritage houses.
All around the Old Town, tucked behind the iconic yellow walls, are peaceful sanctuaries of culture and spirituality. We found ourselves popping into temple after temple—often on a whim—drawn in by ornate gates, fragrant incense, or the sudden quiet. Each one offers a moment of calm, a break from the bustle, and a deeper connection to the soul of the town.

Hoi An’s temples, such as the Quan Cong Temple and the Phuc Kien Assembly Hall, are filled with rich symbolism, detailed carvings, and bright red altars adorned with gold leaf. They’re often built in a fusion of Chinese, Japanese, and Vietnamese architectural styles, reflecting the multicultural roots of Hoi An’s history as a trading port.

The historic merchant homes are another window into the past. Places like the Tan Ky Old House or the Duc An House have been standing for centuries, passed down through generations. Most of these cultural gems only charge modest entrance fees—a few Vietnamese dong for a whole lot of history. If you’re short on time, just visiting one or two is still incredibly worthwhile. And if you plan ahead, you can purchase a Hoi An Old Town heritage pass, which grants entry to several historical buildings, temples, and museums.
These quiet corners of the city are easy to miss—but they’re where some of the most meaningful connections to Hoi An’s spirit are. They’re a reminder to slow down, wander with intention, and soak in the depth beneath the surface glitter.
Food That Changes You

Hoi An was where I had one of the most unforgettable meals of my life: the Vietnamese pancake, or bánh xèo. Crispy, golden, stuffed with pork, shrimp, bean sprouts, and dipped into a sweet-savory sauce—all wrapped in fresh greens and rice paper—it was honestly one of the best meals I have ever eaten. I wasn’t prepared for how simple yet perfect it would be. Definitely learning how to make them myself so that I will never be without them again!
Hoi An’s food scene is affordable and full of variety. Whether you’re after classic street food or something more upscale for a date night, this town delivers. Dishes like cao lầu, a Hoi An specialty with chewy noodles, roasted pork, and local greens, are only found here. White rose dumplings, made with translucent rice paper and a minced shrimp filling, are another local must-try.
You could easily spend a week here doing nothing but eating—and that wouldn’t be a waste of time.
A Fairytale on Water: The Lantern Boat Ride

If there’s one moment that felt truly magical, it was the lantern boat ride down the Thu Bồn River. For just 3 euros, I boarded a small wooden boat glowing with lanterns and floated down the river under the stars and floating lanterns. Everything was lit by warm, flickering light—reflections dancing on the water, music playing softly in the distance.
Before boarding, I was handed a paper candle to release into the river—a simple act believed to bring good luck. Watching those little flames float off into the darkness alongside hundreds of others was beautiful. It’s the kind of moment that sticks with you.
You can also buy sky lanterns along the riverbanks and let them float into the sky for just a couple of euros. Whether you’re with someone special, friends or just soaking it in solo, this is a moment worth carving out time for.
Street Markets, Strange Snacks & Haggling 101
Hoi An comes alive at night. The night market near the riverfront is an explosion of color, sound, and scent. Lanterns dangle above every stall, lighting up the street like a festival. It’s full of energy—people laughing, vendors calling out, music playing—and some of the best street food in Vietnam.
We tried everything from sizzling grilled skewers to fresh fruit smoothies. You can even try some of the more “unusual” local delicacies: egg-fried snake, grilled frogs, and even a roasted scorpion. Not your everyday snack, but hey—when in Vietnam!
This is also where I really embraced the art of haggling. Vendors will almost always start with a high price. You respond with something low, and the dance begins. There’s something strangely satisfying about finally shaking hands and sealing the deal—it’s part theater, part tradition, and all in good fun.
Thanh Ha Pottery Village: Hands in Clay, Heart in Culture
Just a short ride from the center of Hoi An is Thanh Ha Pottery Village, a peaceful and humble place where generations of artisans have been shaping clay into art. This village has been crafting ceramics for over 500 years, and you can feel that history in the air.

We were welcomed into one of the family-run workshops by a 27-year-old woman whose family had been potters for three generations. Her little daughter played nearby while she taught us how to mold a simple pot on the traditional wheel. It felt welcoming and genuine—like being invited into someone’s home.
The ticket you purchase before entering includes a pottery demonstration, a chance to make your own piece, and time to return once you've had a look around to paint it once it’s dried. The whole experience felt family-oriented, deeply rooted in tradition, and full of warmth.
There’s no charge for the pottery-making itself, but most families run small shops where you can buy pieces to support them. Make sure to bring some extra Vietnamese dong—it’s a small way to give back, and you’ll be walking away with a one-of-a-kind souvenir made with your own hands. Unfortunately, not the most practical souvenir to bring with you as a backpacker in the fear of it breaking in my tightly packed bag, however I did thoroughly enjoy the experience.

The Marble Mountains: A Shaky Climb, A Stunning Reward
Not far from Hoi An are the Marble Mountains—five striking peaks named after the five elements: metal, wood, water, fire, and earth. These mountains are steeped in history, home to Buddhist sanctuaries, hidden caves, and panoramic viewpoints.
We decided to take the stairs up Thuy Son (Water Mountain)—a decision I started to question halfway up. The steps were narrow and steep, and let’s just say I discovered I have more of a fear of heights than I thought. At one point, I had to stop and let people pass me. Thankfully, Vietnamese hospitality kicked in and I got plenty of encouragement from strangers!
The views from the top, are Breathtaking. You can see all the way out to Da Nang, the coast, and the countryside. Inside the caves, ancient Buddha statues sit quietly in candlelit alcoves. During the Vietnam War, these caves were used as hospitals and hiding spots, adding a layer of sobering history to their beauty.
Pro tip: Wear proper shoes. Sandals (or anything you own similar to a Birkenstock) were not the move. Something with grip will make a world of difference on these stairs. Trust me on this one.
A Day at the Beach!
One of the highlights of my trip was visiting An Bang Beach, just a short ride from Hoi An. I found the beach really cool—relaxed, laid-back vibes with trees and soft sand stretching along the coast. The water was the warmest I’ve ever swam in—seriously, it felt more like a giant bath than the ocean. There was no escape from the heat, even in the sea, but it somehow this made the whole experience even more memorable. There’s a shark net in place, and I couldn’t spot a single living creature in the water—no fish, no jellyfish—so it’s ideal for anyone who’s a bit uneasy about sea life. An Bang is actually one of the few beaches in Vietnam that’s stayed relatively undeveloped and it’s a perfect spot for a sunbathe or a fun beach day out. With loads of bars, cafés, and restaurants nearby, you’re never too far from a cold drink or a bite to eat. Just don’t forget your SPF!
My Son Sanctuary: Time Travel in the Jungle
Last but definitely not least, the visit to My Son Sanctuary was something truly special. Located about an hour’s drive from Hoi An, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is the former religious center of the Champa Kingdom, built between the 4th and 13th centuries.

The temples are tucked deep in the jungle, surrounded by lush greenery and misty mountains. Some structures are crumbling, others still standing strong—but all of them whisper stories of a lost civilization. The architecture is mind-blowing: intricate carvings, perfectly fitted bricks, and spiritual designs that show off the genius of ancient engineering.
I’ve never felt more like I had stepped into another world. It was quiet, eerie in the best way, and full of awe. The jungle has started reclaiming some of the ruins, which makes it feel even more mystical—like nature and history are entwined.
If you’re planning to visit Angkor Wat, I highly recommend seeing My Son first. The scale of Angkor is massive, and experiencing that grandeur first might make My Son feel underwhelming by comparison. But when visited on its own, My Son offers a deeply spiritual, atmospheric experience that’s completely different and equally powerful in its own way. For me, walking alongside ruins where people once worshipped, loved, and lived gave me chills. The craftsmanship, the history, and the setting—surrounded by mountains and jungle—felt otherworldly.

Final Reflections
Hoi An isn’t just a place you visit—it’s a place that welcomes you, lingers in your heart, and calls you back.
Every lantern-lit alley, every bite of street food, every quiet moment by the river made me fall a little more in love with this enchanting town. Whether you're weaving through night markets, learning to make pottery from a local family, or simply watching the sunset over the old town rooftops, Hoi An reminds you of the beauty in simplicity and the richness of culture.
If you ever get the chance to go—take it. Trust me, you won’t come back the same.
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